Monday, October 31, 2011

A dermatologist, a chemist, and a makeup artist all weigh in on what to do about aging hands



A. THE DERMATOLOGIST SAYS: "Hands are the most sun-exposed part of the body after the face and chest, but most women aren't as diligent about protecting them — which is why they often show damage early on. Excessive sun exposure causes spots (from overproduction of melanin) and prominent veins (due to collagen damage that thins the skin). Loss of fat, which happens with age, also makes veins more visible." Skin-brightening products containing vitamin C or kojic acid can reduce spots after three months of daily use. "But you must also apply sunscreen every morning — and every three hours when you're outside — to prevent new spots," Fields says. No cream will fix bulging veins, but a moisturizer with light-diffusing particles can make them less noticeable. — Kathy Fields, M.D., assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco, and coauthor of Write Your Skin a Prescription for Change



A. THE CHEMIST SAYS: "When your hands are dry, lines and crepey-ness are more obvious, which is why it's so important to keep them moisturized: It plumps the skin so they appear more youthful." Most body lotions aren't hydrating enough to do the job, so use a hand cream that contains humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin, which draw water to the skin, plus ingredients that prevent moisture loss, such as petrolatum and cocoa butter. Reapply throughout the day — "especially with all the hand-washing you do during flu season," says Wilson — and wear leather gloves (which won't wick away moisture) when you're outside. "They keep hands hydrated while protecting against dry air and UV rays, which cause damage even in the winter." — Ni'Kita Wilson, cosmetic chemist and vice president of research and innovation at Englewood Lab in Englewood, NJ




A. THE MANICURIST SAYS: "Cracked, ragged cuticles make hands look worn. To rejuvenate them, exfoliate with a scrub, then rub a dot of cuticle cream into each nail bed. Give it a minute to absorb, then use an orange wood stick to push back your cuticles." Long, pointy nails look old-fashioned, so file 'em short and round, then either buff each nail with five strokes of a nail buffer labeled "240/320 grit" or apply a fun polish color. ("But keep in mind that blue-ish shades can make veins more obvious on fair skin," Logan says.) For something classic, try a warm-toned neutral polish. And if you're getting a salon manicure, "add on a paraffin wax treatment," she suggests. "It plumps the skin and makes hands incredibly smooth and baby-soft." — Lisa Logan, celebrity manicurist whose clients include Beyoncé and Madonna






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